The London Fashion Week for autumn/winter 2025 featured a mix of vibrant runway shows and intimate presentations. Designers like Conner Ives and Paolo Carzana embraced creative expressions despite economic challenges. The trend has shifted to more personal showcases, while established names maintain the allure of traditional catwalks. Overall, there is a call for optimism in the fashion industry as designers explore new avenues.
At Conner Ives’s autumn/winter 2025 show, model Grace Percival impressed in a zebra print kaftan, embodying the vibrant atmosphere created by a jazz remix of Nicki Minaj’s “Super Bass.” Ives highlighted the need for excitement in a season often filled with negativity, stating, “There is a lot of doom and gloom in fashion… but I don’t think that should be any reason to not give them your fantasies.”
Designer Paolo Carzana embraced a more contemplative approach, presenting handcrafted pieces in a cozy Clerkenwell tavern for a small crowd. This trend of intimate showcases among designers like Aaron Esh, Feben, and 16Arlington reflects innovation amid rising costs, moving away from traditional runway formats.
Masha Popova pointed out the shift in perception regarding catwalk participation, now viewed as a financial strategy rather than a necessity. Independently-minded designers are pursuing novel formats for collection showcases, such as Tolu Coker’s studio recreation. Dilara Findikoğlu, focusing solely on February presentations, also exemplifies the creativity outside the conventional schedule.
Simone Rocha’s collection is reminiscent of a contemporary manifesto, reflecting a more subdued London Fashion Week atmosphere. Despite this, the runway remains influential for well-resourced designers. Richard Quinn’s show featuring playful bridal gowns stood out, performing greatly on social media, while Erdem’s ethereal designs provided a sense of calm amidst the chaos of London Fashion Week.
Burberry’s countryside-themed show attracted international attention, featuring a knight in full armour and celebrity appearances, including Richard E Grant and Lesley Manville, showcasing a refreshing audacity in fashion presentations.
London Fashion Week has embraced a shift towards intimacy and creativity, highlighting the need for designers to adapt in challenging economic times. While traditional runways still hold power for some, many are now exploring alternative presentation methods that enhance engagement and reflect personal artistry. The overarching theme is a call for optimism and imagination amidst a somewhat gloomy fashion landscape.
Original Source: www.vogue.co.uk